Adventures in Africa





måndag 7 februari 2011

Tired

I am too tired when I come home from work to write the conclusion for this blog I'm planning. Have planned it a while now... Working EVERY day is much more tiring than I remember - or maybe I just need a couple of weeks getting used to it again :/

Hopefully I'll stay awake long enough one evening this week to get it done!

torsdag 13 januari 2011

Sorry...

...I've been very lazy since I came back to Sweden!
Will soon write again - I promise.

torsdag 16 december 2010

Birthday

I had a fantastic birthday last Friday! Thousands (or at least so it felt) of birthday wishes on facebook and a great night in the company of my friends in Pemba. We started the evening with a sundowner and dinner at Kauri and then went on to – of course – Russell’s Place. I had fun :)



Training has been a bit up & down this last week. Mostly down unfortunately. It started last Thursday and hasn’t improved much since. But I guess that’s just how it is, some weeks are strong and others just crap… I’ve been staying up a bit later than usual this week as well, so maybe that affects me more than I thought it would.

Catisha, my embregada (maid), has been sick so I had to wash my own dishes a couple of times this week. Imagine how horrible my life has been these last days ;) Luckily she’s ok again and came back to work today. Unfortunately I can’t afford a maid in Sweden, so I guess it was just good preparation for coming back home. I will miss her.

Today I went to see Louisa – my new Mozambiquan friend. She moved to Nanhimbe a couple of months ago and she speaks English. She was born in Lichinga, Niassa reserve, and has lived in South Arica 13 years. There’s where she learned how to speak English.

She told me she met her husband, who comes from Nanhimbe, when he was working in Lichinga 2 years ago. He asked for her telephone number and then it took a whole year before he called. And said he liked her and wanted to marry her. But before anything was settled he came back to Lichinga to visit her and her family. She also went to Pemba to see what it was like before the wedding. They got married in Lichinga in the end of September and the next day she moved to live with him in Nanhimbe. Quite a bit different from our way of doing the same thing…

She also told me her sister gave her one of her babies to bring to Nanhimbe. Louisa has a son herself, he is 19 years old and is studying agriculture in Lichinga. Her sister has 3 children and the youngest went with Louisa – also a bit different from what I’m used to! But from the way she talked about it, it felt like the most natural thing in the world. Since I don’t know her good enough yet I didn’t want to inquire too much. Maybe next time. Her sister is 20 years old and has been married since she was 14. Louisa got married the first time when she was 16 and had her son when 17.

She is an accountant and is looking for a job at the moment. She doesn’t like to just sit around the house. Like her “sisters” in Lichinga she wants to work. But she thinks the women in Pemba are very different and lazy. She doesn’t think they are interested in working and only want to marry because they want money and nice things. I really can’t say I know anything about that. I can see that almost all women stay at home, at least here in Nanhimbe, but if it’s because they can’t find a job or they don’t want to find a job I don’t know.

It was really interesting and nice to hear a bit more of a woman’s life in Mozambique. I’m sorry I haven’t learned enough Portuguese to have the same conversation with my neighbors.

torsdag 9 december 2010

Christmas time in Pemba

For me it’s a bit surreal that Christmas Eve is only 2 weeks away. The shops in town are decorated with all the glittering stuff and the staff is wearing Santa Claus hats. The sun is beaming from a clear blue sky and summer is definitely here. I’m sweating 24/7 again since both temperature and humidity is climbing again. Very strange feeling to say the least!

I must admit that I would love to go home for Christmas! I will miss my family tons on Christmas Eve and, even if I will be in good company, it’s just something special with Christmas and family. It’s the first time I’m really home sick on this trip actually, which is not too bad since it’s not too long until I’m going back.

Yesterday I woke up to a horrible stench – the rat I’ve being trying to kill a while now finally did die! Probably a couple of days ago, considering the smell… And he decided to put himself to his last rest just above my bed, on top of the ceiling. Thanks to Frank I could go to bed breathing fresh air in the evening => he crawled up under the roof and threw the rat away. What would I do without him?!?

And today Anne Laure and I ran as usually Thursday mornings at 05.00. It was a bit strenuous today for some reason, so we decided to walk the last bit. But that’s ok, we gotta have mornings like that as well.

måndag 6 december 2010

Fan

Isn’t it amazing how a simple thing as a fan can improve life so much!?! A friend of mine said, when she found out I have been sleeping without one until now; you’re even tougher than the Africans! I don’t know about that, but it has been kind of hot from time to time. The worst part for me, sleeping in a single bed, is to lie as far out on the sides as possible in order to find some cool space when turning. But now I have my fan :) If we have electricity that is… It’s been a lot of the “power on/off” lately, and I really hope that’s going to change soon!

Last week turned out to be a bit of a party week => Nelson’s good bye party Tuesday evening, Pieter, Amaya and Megan leaving Friday so we had to do something about that Thursday night and Saturday birthday party… I was a bit tired yesterday :/

This week will be all about training instead! It started good with a 10 km run this morning followed by a session of Pilates. Feeels great!

Now Internet at Russell’s again – my mobile Internet at home turned out not to be the big success it seemed last week :( It will probably work really well from time to time, but I can unfortunately not rely on it.

torsdag 25 november 2010

Travelling…

…can sometimes be exhausting. Like this trip to Malawi; 7 out of 9 days on the road! Was it worth it? Yes, definitely in most ways, but I don’t want to do it again shortly ;)

Last Sunday morning at 03.00 I knocked on C’s door and off we went. Almost 13 hours later we arrived in Mocuba after a long, but nice, drive on mostly very good roads. We had stopped I Nampula for a quick brunch and had also waited about an hour and half in the morning for a car we were co-driving with the first day. That part of the day was the least appreciated by far – imagine we could have slept another 1½ HOUR!!! Anyway, it was ok and it certainly helped us sleep like babies the first night of our trip.

On the road in Mozambique



Nampula



Next day we left Mocuba at about 09.00 am and arrived at the boarder ca 5 hours later. Everything went well and we could continue towards Mulanje after not much more than an hour. All the way through Mozambique the landscape changed and became more green and lush. In and around the Mulanje Mountain there are many tea plantations so coming into Malawi it was even lusher and the surroundings were very beautiful!



Malawi:)






The day after we arrived I explored the Mulanje town by foot. It’s quite a small town, but very nice with the mountain and tea plantations surrounding it. I had decide to go Lake Malawi since C would be busy with meetings the next couple of days, so the day after I was on the road again… 11 hours in mini buses and on the back of a truck was definitely an experience. By the time I arrived in Cape Maclear I was exhausted and starving. With both of those sorted I crashed at 09.30 pm and slept very well the whole night!

In the morning I woke up to this beautiful view (it was dark when I arrived so I had no clue what to expect)



And after breakfast my guide Patric took me to Thumbe Island on this canoe



There I snorkeled when he was feeding the fish with bread – it was like being in an aquarium!! I had a thousand beautifully colored fish around me going for the bread. AND me! I tell you; they have sharp teeth :) We also paddled around a bit and I saw many big birds hunting for fish, Fish Eagle among others.

In the afternoon I strolled around the village and for lunch I had banana & garlic toast. Try it – it’s really good! After lunch JB taught me how to play Bawo, which apparently is a game played all over Africa. I haven’t seen it before, but it was a lot of fun, and I actually managed to win one game.

It was a very nice and relaxing day which I really needed, because the day after I started my journey back at 04.00 am. Another long day on the road and it began with me missing the big bus I intended to take. So I ended up in mini buses…again… The actual ride is mostly quite ok (even if the buses are loaded with people so you barely fit in), it’s the 1½ - 2 hours driving around filling up the buses to maximum before starting that drives me crazy. And when I think the bus is finally full they squeeze in at least 4-5 more people who usually have to stand up because the seats are more than filled up already.

The mini buses are not in the best shape...




Anyway, after another 10 hours I was back in Mulanje and could take that longed after shower. And then, the next day we headed back to Mozambique. 3 more days of traveling before I came home left me exhausted for a couple of days! But I have seen a lot more of Mozambique and I have been to Malawi – so yes it was worth it :) I also got my new visa, which was one of the reasons I had to leave the country. Doing it in the company of C was a whole lot more fun than being on chapa’s to the Tanzanian boarder and back!

lördag 13 november 2010

Malawi

Tomorrow morning 03.30 C and I will head off to Malawi!

It will be my first journey south of Pemba. Hopefully I will have Internet access, but if not I’ll be back in about 10 days. And then I promise to tell you all about it!

Ciao for now – I need to start packing :)

onsdag 10 november 2010

Rat

The story of my house guests continues; while I was away a rat moved into my house in Nanhimbe. He is the one house guest I appreciate the least so far and I hope I will find a way to kill him soon! The other night, sitting peacefully reading in my couch I saw the little bastard peak out of the ceiling and start walking upside down towards me! Jesus – I really didn’t like that move. Fortunately he saw me suddenly and returned through a crack in the bamboo ceiling. Coming home the day after, I heard him in my trash bag and immediately called Frank. I’m too much of a coward to get close myself, but Frank couldn’t get him either. Well, well one of these days will be his last! Maybe I’ll borrow a cat and let it up on top of the ceiling where the ugly thing lives – I can hear him roaming around up there, lying in bed at night :/

Other than that I don’t have much news at the moment. Life is getting back to normal; I get up at 04.45 for my run with Anne-Laure Tuesdays and Thursdays. Then I run with Frank Wednesdays and Fridays in the afternoon and then all 3 of us go for a longer run Sunday mornings. In between I walk or run by myself and am supposed to do Pilates at least 3 times per week… I will start the Pilates tomorrow again ;) I know my back will get so much better once I’m back on track with that training as well. Summa summarum: training feels good and I’m getting stronger and in better shape every week. Have lost a couple of kilos too. (Was about time…)

It feels like it’s getting hotter by the day now, the temperature goes up to 33 ̊C in the shade and inside my house it never goes below 27 ̊C. It starts to get harder to fall asleep because it’s just too warm. I really need to buy a fan soon. And after running I’m sweating so much you would think I was coming OUT of the shower instead of getting in.

torsdag 4 november 2010

Be careful with what you wish for

Finally back in Pemba! I have spent the last 2 weeks in Ibo with almost no access to Internet. This time I wasn’t able to get into my blog at all, I tried several times without success.

And last week we had our first charter; Oliver & Fiona from Australia sailed with us four days. It was a great trip with lots of snorkeling, nice trips around Quirimbas and fresh crayfish (Pieter caught two while snorkeling, using a hook he made out of some stuff he found on the boat). We went to Rolas, Matemo, the Sandbar, the wind was quite strong the whole week so the planned trip to Pangane didn’t work out unfortunately. But we had a great time anyway :)

On my way back to Pemba one of my wishes was fulfilled – I got to ride in the back of a chapa (the local buses are called chapas in Mozambique). And I am happy about the experience, but I don’t necessary have to do it again… IF that truck was approved of in Sweden for public transportation (which of course would never happen) it might be for maximum 10-12 people on the wooden benches. At one point I counted 32 adults and 10 kids, 1 rooster and 2 chickens (alive of course…) not counting the guys on the roof – probably another 5-6 people. It was uncomfortable to say the least. The bush roads aren’t exactly smooth, I don’t know how many times I flew straight up when there was a bump in the road and landed on my behind hard on the wood, but it must have been at least a thousand!! I had people everywhere; on my feet, in my lap, on my head etc. 5 hours I spent on that chapa ;)

Sitting there I started thinking about how uncomfortable I was and that I never, ever want to sit in the back of a chapa again and I realized how fortunate I am => I actually have the opportunity and money to choose a more comfortable way of traveling. Because how poor I might be I will never be as poor as the people of Africa. This is their reality! Every day.

And that goes for everything in our different lives. As Elder said when we talked about it earlier today; if we get sick we have a way out if we need. Via insurance, family, friends or own savings or however we fix it. But if you’re an African, living in a village in the bush with no money you can’t get anywhere – you can only hope you’ll get better and rely on whatever care you can get right where you are.

torsdag 14 oktober 2010

Small chirurgia

Yesterday I went to the hospital – again… I’ve had more incidents since coming to Africa than the last 20 years in total. Anyway, this time it was my toe nail. The one that fell off a couple of months ago, or the new one growing out to be a bit more accurate. It had started growing down and into the flesh. I was really freaked out before going because I thought it would hurt. But it turned out to be totally ok and now I hope it won’t bother me ever again!

Being in Pemba again is very nice though! I’ve been here a week already and will go back to Ibo Saturday morning. In the company of Frank & C – they are coming to spend a long weekend on the island. Hopefully the winds will be with us and not blow too strongly so we can go out with the boat for a sleepover.

And tonight is movie night at Russell’s :)

onsdag 6 oktober 2010

Bats,

cockroaches, spiders, a grasshopper and some big furry thing with about 10 000 legs are my new house guests. The bats are ok, they just hang in the roof as long as I am awake and the lights are on => one on the porch and one inside the house. But they wake me up in the middle of the night with their uuuiiiiiii-sound. The cockroaches I’m not afraid of, but they are big and disgusting. The spiders I hope are not poisonous – I certainly tell myself they’re not… The grasshopper is ok as long it doesn’t attack me and the other unidentified thing is kind of ok as well, it doesn’t seem to take any particular interest in me:) We don’t have that many mosquitoes yet, but I’m sure there will be plenty when the rains come.



Other than that I’ve only seen goats, chicken and cows on the island so far. I think there are snakes, but thankfully they seem to be quite private and don’t show themselves too often. This morning, running by a big flowering tree, I could hear what must have been a million bees humming. It is possible to buy Ibo honey I’ve heard, so I’ll see if I can find some later today.

tisdag 5 oktober 2010

Big waves

Yesterday we went with some friends on the boat, aiming for the light house with dolphins and good snorkeling waters. Unfortunately we didn’t make it. As soon as we came out of the sheltered waters behind Ibo the wind picked up quite a lot and after another 5-6 k’s we had to turn back. 2 people already sea sick and the motor starting to struggle.

It turned out to be a very nice day anyway – once back and securely anchored we made lunch and had a pleasant afternoon. Almost no wind and great company.







After having dinner at Miti Miwiri I began watching “The devil wears Prada”, but had to flee the building when a giant grasshopper started to attack me. It was all for the best though – it was already 8.30 and I had set my alarm to go off at 04.20 today. Sooo, this morning I had an early run followed by a nap after breakfast :) And then some Portuguese studies before lunch. Just finished the movie and will now order take out-dinner at the Pastelaria.