Cup shower

Today I tried the cup shower – a whole new experience again. My shower doesn’t work so I had to find another option and the cup shower is really nice!! There are two buckets with water; 1 with hot water and 1 with cold water and a bucket and that’s that. Very simple and functional! In this heat I could only use the cold water, but in the morning I’m sure it’s nice to warm up the cold water a little bit with the hot.

Migração

So the trip to immigrations was fast. And fruitless.

Fortunately I was prepared thanks to nice people who have told me that it usually takes a couple of trips before everything is settled to their satisfaction. That’s why I started the process today; my visa doesn’t expire until Friday.

Anyway – I now have a little note attached to my passport saying (I think) in Portuguese that I need some sort of certification that says I am staying at Pemba Magic Lodge. I’ll find out later what they want and give it to them tomorrow. Then I hope I’ll be coming back with the extension instead of a new note.

Wish me luck :)

Hectic morning

When I got up this morning there was a crowd ordering breakfast at 7.00 am already. The camp is pretty full this week so John was running around trying to open the place and serving the people at the same time. Usually we don't open until 7.30. He is doing such a good job! I helped him out of course and now I am off to immigrations to get my visa extended with another 30 days. I can’t believe I’ve already been here 4 weeks!!!

Until later... :)

Internet

Internet and power are two things that come and go in my life these days. No power means no Internet, but that’s only one of the reasons why the Internet is down. The last couple of days have been worse than ever, but now I hope the new router will do its job and make it both faster and more reliable.

This weekend I went to the beach with Jutta again :) George and John, who both were staying in the camp a couple of days, came along and we had a nice relaxing day! The water is so different from what I have experienced before => it’s really hot, but there are cool streaks which make it a little bit refreshing in some spots at least.

After that – back to work, which was a total mess! One of the waiters didn’t show up. Everything was backed up already when I came and I’m not sure I ever caught up… It’s normal to wait for food 1 hour after you order here in Pemba, but when it takes 1½ - 2 hours even these patient people will be a bit frustrated. I totally understand - I think 1 hour is much too long! But I am getting used to it. And, as C said, once you’re used to it and come back to Europe where the food come very quick; it’s too fast!! Anyway - I was tired at 11 pm when I went to bed.

Yesterday I was studying for my diving certificate and later this week I will probably go for my second dive. At least I hope so!

Working was much easier last night, thank you very much! And my biggest concern was the stupid mozzie that had found its way in through my mosquito net and were buggering me all night. I actually have 63 mosquito bites totally on my legs right now - then there is the rest of the body... Guess if I want the rain season to end quickly now!

Pemba Dive & Bush Camp

Not too bad

Chuva

Woke up to a big thunder storm today which lasted all morning. It was very nice! I love thunder storms! And the air actually cleared up for a couple of hours, it was really cool and refreshing. Now, of course, the temperature is back to normal…

Frank came and picked me up around one o’clock and we went to "556" for a drink, and then to Pemba Dive & Bush Camp for another, before heading back to Russell’s. The dirt roads are a bit bumpy after the chuva (rain) but today it was quite ok - I have seen worse even if I've only been here a couple of weeks. It has been a very nice afternoon – thank you Frank for the jail break :) It really felt good to get out of the camp for a while, I needed that!

Coming back, Gail and I went for a run. But couldn’t go as far as we intended because we were chased by a whole heard of mad dogs! Luckily we had our own guard dog with us, Siri, who managed to fight them all off. The stupid guards had closed the gate, which obviously would have been great if there weren’t 3 other openings in the wall. The closed gate just gave us false security, otherwise we would have walked passed that house!

Anyway - tonight I am taking the night off!! Anything can happen ;)

First findings

Norton wannabees... But no one could ever replace Norton - I miss him!!

Hot!

Didn’t get up until 2.30 pm today ;) I had a late night yesterday discussing all the important stuff in life with C, Jay, Gail and Greg. Very nice! And, even if it was really nice to stay in bed, it was also too hot! I was sweating like never before. When trying to complain just a tiny little bit over that on facebook I got totally “dissad” from my friends back home. They obviously long for warmer weather, whereas I could easily replace at least every other hot day with a couple of minus degrees!

Tonight is movie night and good bye party for Jay at Russell’s. He is going to Lesotho to work. I think he is coming back, but don’t know when. This is common in Pemba; people come and go all the time it seems. Work a couple of months or a year and then their off to somewhere else…

Exercise

Today I made up a new exercise practice. One where I don’t need a partner for security, or any other matter. Skipping and running around the pool!

Here is how it goes;
* 10 laps around the pool to warm up (and I don’t cheat – I go around the table as well ;))
* 300 skips
* another 15 laps around the pool
* 300 skips
* and so on for 45 minutes…
* then push-ups and sit-ups for another 15 minutes
* stretching and shower, then work

Pretty good, right!?!

Flip flops

Since I came I have only worn the one pair of flip flops I brought to Africa! That’s the first time in my life I haven’t changed shoes every day! It’s very comfortable, but a bit boring. I guess I need more flip flops... Because I know for a fact feet need change of shoes. Otherwise you might get bad knees or hips or back pain and all sorts of other ailments. What an excellent excuse to go shopping despite my crappy budget :)

I have actually shopped once already at the market - a sarong for 20 Swedish krona. Worn with the flip flops of course!!!

Pool day

Today I finally made it to the pool :) I brought my diving book and had a long, nice & lazy day at Club Naval. In the afternoon I took a walk back to the camp; about 45 minutes in excruciating heat. I was lucky enough to meet Issufo (one of the waiters) on the way, he gave me lessons in Portuguese all the way back. So now I know how to say “today is Tuesday and it is bloody HOT” – but I have no idea whatsoever how to write it…

Coming back I actually did some skipping! It must be at least 30 years since last time. It was fun and exhausting. Made me think of grandpa, he used to skip all the time!

And, finally, in the shower I got attacked by a stupid wasp. He stung me in the back – grrr, it hurt like hell! Fortunately it was over in just 15 or so minutes. One of few disadvantages with having an outdoor bathroom.

Portuguese

It’s time to start learning Portuguese! Today James brought me a course (thank you so much) that I will listen to every day on my computer. I’ve been promised to borrow some books as well, so soon enough I’m sure I will be close to fluent :)

Otherwise it has been another hot and humid day in the camp. I was planning to go the pool at Club Naval today, after shopping with Gail, but the car we waited for came back way too late… That was a bit disappointing, but I’ll just go tomorrow instead. That’s a very good thing with the nice weather here.

So instead I started study for my diving certificate! And Gail and I went to Bettina to pick up a couple of things she brought from Maputo for Russell’s pool. She lives in an Italian complex just up the road which is very nice! It’s so interesting to see how people live here.

We managed to fit in a run in the afternoon as well. And today, for the first time since I came, I did some push-ups and sit-ups afterwards. Feels like I’m getting my training going a little bit better suddenly. I discovered that Gail has a skipping rope, so I can use that if she is busy and can’t come run with me. I also have to contact Jo and see if we can manage to get together some day! She runs 10 km at 05.15 in the morning a couple of times a week and that is ok as long as I don’t work until 01.00 the night before… I just have to figure out a schedule that work and then I will start running with her as well.

Boring day

Yesterday was a long exhausting day starting with the fantastic diving experience. After the dive Nick (whom I dived with, a very nice guy from SA) and I went for lunch at Pemba Dolphin and then we walked over to Pieter’s Place. We had to take a look at the 1 000(!) year old tree he has in his garden.




Then I had a long night, working at Russell’s. I was so tired I slept until 10.30 this morning! Usually I’m up at 7.30 at the latest.

And since then I've just had a boring day! I have tried to figure out my budget for this coming year in Mozambique and unfortunately it wasn’t very uplifting. I probably have to start making some money down the road in order to make the full year happen. My problem is that I am paying too much on my apartment in Stockholm every month.

But I’m sure I’ll figure it out somehow! And as long as I stay at Russell’s I will be ok, but really - that’s not why I came here...

Wow!

Diving was really something else. Much more than I expected on every account! It was fascinating to be able to stay under water such a long time (or actually to stay under water at all ;)) We went down to 11 (!) meters and stayed 35 minutes.

And there are so much to see for a new beginner like me; starfish in different colors just kind of lying around, lots and lots of tiny fish in the colors of the rainbow, sea cucumbers – sticky bläää, corals and much more. Bigger fish in deeper water...maybe next time. I know I have seen it before, snorkeling, but to be able to stay put, or follow a fish if you want to, is really something extra! I totally understand why so many people love to scuba dive!

And, yes I admit it => I was a bit scared at first and felt a little bit of panic. I almost didn’t go in the water the second time, but boy am I glad I did! Stupid of me not to understand this was coming. It is so much against everything you have ever learnt is possible – it must be just natural that your body reacts on it. And thinking about it I must say I’m glad I do react, otherwise something might be really wrong…

So that means I have signed up for the whole course :)


My instructor Pieter to the left and diving buddy Nick in the middle

Late night swim

Gail and I took a swim in the pool before going to bed last night. The water was so nice - it felt like swimming in velvet!!

We started the evening with “The Big Lebowski” since it was Thursday and movie night. Loved it! After the movie we got a good party going at Russell’s before we went to Brazuka's and ended the evening with a couple of hours dancing!

And Jutta, C and I started to plan a trip to Pangane within the next couple of weeks. I hope we will be able to put it into reality! It would be great to have company on that trip, especially with these two fabulous girls :)

More differences

Here everybody has a guard outside their house, day & night. And sometimes that doesn’t help and they get robbed anyway. That’s different from Sweden.

Here you always have to iron your clothes after washing them, I mean everything. Flies lay their eggs in the wet clothes, and if you don’t iron them to death, these little buggers will get into your skin and start eating you. We don’t have those in Sweden (thank God).

Sometimes when I come into my outdoors bathroom I can see a gecko hurry to hide on the wall behind the toilet. That never happened in Kristineberg.

Goats and hens with hteir chickens are all over the roads in some parts of town so you have to be careful driving. And if you want to buy fresh, just caught fish you have a lot of opportunities alongside the roads. Don’t see that in Sweden anymore.

Better again

I feel much better than yesterday and the fever is already gone.

And I have signed up for my first dive today! It’s on Saturday morning and I am really looking forward to it! I don’t know where we’re going yet, but I will definitely come back with a full report.

I have also started to plan where to go first on my excursions around Pemba => it will probably be Londo; http://www.londolodge.com/ followed by either Ibo; http://www.iboisland.co.za/ibo-island-037/ or Pangane; about 250 km north of Pemba ( I couldn't find any good websites).

I really thought I finally had managed to get Skype working properly, but when I called mom she couldn’t hear me… It’s just frustrating with all the little things that takes forever to download - and then it doesn’t work anyway %&/#”=@%#!! I guess that’s the Pemba patience I need to learn...

Here comes the rain again. It rains every day right now, mostly at night. Apparently it has been raining unusually a lot this summer. I am really looking forward to winter; especially because there will be less mosquitoes during the dry season! I hate them so much – and they just seem to loooove me…

Malaria

Today I have a fever and sore throat. I am feeling a bit sorry for myself and have stayed in bed almost all day. Because I was also here in November I went to the clinic for a malaria test just to make sure. Fortunately it was negative. I guess it’s just a cold in the heat. Gail has been taking very good care of me making sure I ate dinner (room service!! :)) and putting on a video for me. I appreciate that very much, thank you Gail!!

Malaria is not a big thing once you’re here; “if you get it – just take your medicine and you’ll be fine“ But of course it’s important to take the test and then medicine if you need it. If you think too loosely of it, it might cost you your life or make malaria a lifetime decease. A lot of people advise me to stop taking the malaria tablets because they’re not good for you. I’ll probably do that in a couple of weeks when the rain season comes to an end. But until then I might just as well go on since I don’t experience any side effects at all.

More from Russell's

Il Pirata

Karaoke

Yesterday I went to Murrebue beach with Jutta. We took a long very nice walk on the beach and got back to Il Piarata; http://www.murrebue.com/Pages/home-page.html ,just in time before the rain started. And when it rains – it’s pouring! After the first storm we went for a swim and I am not lying - the water must have been +35C or more!!! Totally crazy warm! Apparently it heats up even more most of the time, Jutta actually thought it was refreshing yesterday...

We got another big storm during the afternoon which made the ride back a bit adventurous. The dirt roads get really flooded and you need a 4W to get through the small lakes that build up.

When we came back to Russell’s we found a happy crowd singing karaoke and dancing in the bar – I did NOT sing :) but I did dance! The rain was still coming down hard and the power went on and off the whole night. Sitting on the toilet when everything goes pitch black all of a sudden was a new experience… I better get used to it though, it happens every other day or so. Fortunately it has been short periods so far, but if we’re unlucky we can be without for days.

Russell's Place

I just discovered you can click on the pictures to get a bigger image.

Beach party

Pieter's Place

Lazy day

It’s really hot and humid today (+36C) and a huge thunder storm is closing in fast! Hopefully it will clear the air a little bit.

Today Gail and I went to "Pieter’s Place" for lunch. He has built his restaurant and house around a fantastic, huge, beautiful baobab tree. You can even climb up the tree and sit in it!

In the afternoon I cleaned and organized our store room with, very much appreciated, help from Kryza.

Tomorrow we're off to the beach :)

I hope I will be able to download pictures soon!

Working girl…

The first week I just settled in and didn’t do much actual work. Although, I did go into town a couple of times with Russell, shopping for the camp at a gazillion different places. Buying everything from charcoal to eggs to milk to flour to toilet paper to alchol to cleaning products etc. All in different shops, none has it all... This is so different from Sweden where we get everything delivered.

But the last couple of days I have started to work. Its fun and quite easy, but new routines always takes a little time to figure out. And improvements - in due time I guess. For now I’ll just try to recognize all people coming here. This is “da place” for the locals if I understand things right. Perfect – makes it a lot easier for me to get to know everybody. I actually met most of them at a beach party last Saturday. It was a great party and, I said it before, everybody is so nice and welcoming!

Yesterday I lay by the pool at Club Navale (Pemba Beach Hotel) all day long with my new friend Jutta from Germany! It was so nice to just relax and get a tan started. I have been here a week already and was still as white as when I arrived. Didn’t even burn myself either. And the ocean is unbelievably warm – must be at least 25C!

Coming back to the camp Gail and I went for another run in the heat. And once again I didn’t find it as exhausting as I was afraid of. It actually feels quite good to run in this temperature. Unfortunately is Gail leaving for South Africa in a couple of weeks. She’ll probably be gone 3 months, so I have to find another running partner during that time; it’s not a good idea to run on your own here. There is a woman here training for an ultra race in Australia (I think it is 240 km during 5 days). Maybe I can run with her and maybe I’ll just start train for Stockholm Marathon 2011 while I’m at it…

Life is really very different here!

First of all – I am sweating 24/7! And unfortunately I have been told it usually takes a long time to adjust. Feels almost unbearable from time to time, but there are moments when it’s actually ok too. The worst time is at night when I lie in bed and try to get to sleep. Even with the fan it’s too hot to be comfortable. But if that will be my worst problem then I ain’t complaining!

The pace of life is so much slower here. That’s another thing I have to get used to. Maybe this is one of the reasons fate brought me here – to learn patience. Those were among the very first words I heard when I arrived; “if you want to stay in Pemba you have to learn patience”. That was Gail giving me some words of wisdom.

And then there are the mosquitoes… Feels like most of them have had a little piece of me already.

Don’t get me wrong – I really enjoy being in Mozambique! Some things just take some time getting used to. Apart from the above; life in Pemba is wonderful! Everybody I meet is so welcoming! And genuinely friendly!

Yesterday I went for my first jog in the heat, 4 km with Gail! It was actually not as exhausting and hot as I expected, thank you very much! The sun decided to stay behind a cloud the whole time – that might have helped a bit :)

I am trying to download pictures as well, but something is not working. It might be the internet connection being not only a little bit slow but also very much on and off. I’ll keep on trying, eventually it will probably work!

* Thank you Johan and Stefi! Love you! xx

My bungalow

Why Mozambique?

…is a question many people asked me when I told them what I was up to.

It all started with an urge for skiing (!) a little bit over a year ago and ended with me going to southern Africa… So how did that happen? I’m not sure myself, but after a vacation to South Africa (Cape Town, Johannesburg, Kapama River Lodge in Greater Kruger Park) and Mozambique (Pemba) I realized I had fallen in love with Africa! And I wanted to see more.

Coming back to Sweden I mostly felt I hadn’t seen enough of Mozambique (I pretty much didn’t see anything outside the Pemba Beach Hotel). And to be in a country so different to what I am used to and not experience it was a bit of a disappointment – my own fault, but nevertheless… My first thought was to go back for a longer vacation. But once that thought was in my mind I started dreaming about taking a year off and do it “properly”. And here I am – 7 days into my African adventure with a one year’s leave of absence from HRG… My plan is to get to know as much of this part of the world as I can afford :)

I am staying at Russell’s Place; http://www.pembamagic.com/ in Pemba in the northern part of Mozambique; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pemba,_Mozambique
Pemba is right on the shore of the Indian Ocean, overlooking the 3rd largest natural bay in the world; http://www.pemba-info.com/